When choosing a wood for your custom table, the easiest part of the decision making process is picking the color of the wood. Now that you’ve gotten that decision out of the way, it’s time to consider a few other important factors so that you can make the best possible decision for your table.
The three main factors involved in buying the right tabletop are durability, grain, and cost.
Durability is measured in the hardness of the wood via The Janka hardness test measures the resistance of a sample of wood to denting and wear. The higher the number on the scale, the harder and more durable the wood.
Woodgrain is the arrangement of the wood fibers, denoting the texture of the wood. The wood pores that determined if it’s open or closed-grain. Larger pores are considered open grain and are visible to the naked eye. Smaller pores create a closed grain.
When considering the cost for your new table or desk, it is important to keep in mind that the wood utilized is solid wood (as opposed to the less expensive particle board wood commonly used in mass-produced tables) has been salvaged and is not virgin wood. Olde Good Things is consciously utilizing practices to avoid deforestation where possible. The cost of each hand-crafted table is reflected in the craftsmanship and quality of each table and is indicative of the table’s longevity.
MAPLE
DURABILITY: One of the hardest woods typically used for high-use furniture such as cabinetry. Takes dark stain semi-well, but is known for being splotchy when applied. Moisture-resistant, maple is rated as non-durable to perishable, and susceptible to insect attack. Janka rating 1400-1500
GRAIN: Straight, closed-grain.
COST: Medium
OAK
DURABILITY: Oak is a hard-wearing and heavy wood – able to withstand constant use. Most often cut in a way that makes it resistant to warping. Rated as non-durable to perishable, with poor insect resistance. Stains when in contact with water. Janka rating 1200-1300
GRAIN: It is known for having lovely open-grain markings.
COST: Medium
PINE
DURABILITY: Low-density, softwood. Prone to nicks and scratches. Takes paint and stain well. The heartwood is rated as non-durable to perishable in regards to decay resistance. Janka rating 300-400
GRAIN: Even, close-grained
COST: Low
WALNUT
DURABILITY: Walnut is a hardwood known for its strength. Rated as very durable in terms of decay resistance, though it is susceptible to insect attack. Janka rating 1000-1100
GRAIN: Straight, open-grain. It has a medium texture and moderate natural luster.
COST: High
Watch a video on how to care for your wood tabletop
Take a look at our Farmhouse or Industrial table blog posts
Hi
Do you recommend some stories to buy those woods? I’ll find them at home depot?
We sell the all woods, we described. Mostly reclaimed.
This is a great article to read since I am looking for custom furniture and I need to consider the durability of the wood as you mentioned which I am not too knowledgeable about. Since you pointed out that I have to consider the cost as well, I’ll try to make sure that I’m buying just the right price for the furniture I’m buying so that I get the most out of my money. I’ll take your advice and go with oak or walnut as you suggest since you said they’re known to be durable.
I love to see how there are people who treat wood well, it is very important for furniture, tables, chairs and others … work with good materials, but more with heart and good hands! Congratulations on your work friend! 🙂
I love how you mentioned maple and how it usually is a hardwood that is very durable. My husband and I are looking for reclaimed wood that we can use as we remodel our home. We will keep these tips in mind as we search for a professional that can help us best.
Very nice and informative post… Thanks for sharing the information.
Amzing blog post!!
You did a great job on everything. Keep sharing.
Hi, great information especially for a novice someone who just goes by a woods pattern and not it’s durability. That’s very clear when you described Pine for example.
The only thing you mentioned I would take issue with is both Maple and Pine take stain, any wood does. If you want a totally blotchy wood. I stay away from that wood when I’m thinking of staining. There’s tons of information out there about wood conditioners I’ve over the years have tried them all. Findings……don’t stain pine, maple,
Poplar and a host of other woods. Unless……
You know how to work with dyes and or dye stains. And have a quality HVLP spray unit…
All and all a good look into woods for table tops.
Thank You for Sharing This Amazing Information. yes i totally agree with you with your ideas. you have explained everything so easily and i love your writing style. keep up writing.
Hi, I’m having a Barndominium built, I am wanting on building a Walnut Trestle dinning room table. The top will be 40″ x 7′, what width of boards do you recommend? I had planned on using 12″ wide boards and cutting them down to 10″ to ensure I have a 40″ top. If I alternate the grain pattern will that help it from cupping and bowing? I have been told that 10″ boards would cup and bow and that I should use 6″ boards. What is your recommendations?
Email [email protected] attn Jerry F, he can answer your questions.